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what is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents

what is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents

2 min read 05-02-2025
what is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents

Alkaline perms, also known as cold waves, are a popular hair styling method for creating lasting curls and waves. But what exactly makes them work? The active ingredient responsible for the chemical restructuring of hair in alkaline perms is ammonium thioglycolate (ATG). Understanding ATG is key to understanding how alkaline perms achieve their results.

Understanding Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)

Ammonium thioglycolate is a reducing agent. This means it breaks the disulfide bonds that hold the protein chains in your hair together. These disulfide bonds are what give your hair its shape and structure. By breaking these bonds, ATG allows the hair to be reshaped into curls or waves. The process is crucial for achieving the desired perm result.

How ATG Works in Alkaline Perms

The alkaline solution in a perm lotion, which typically has a pH of 9.0 to 9.6, helps ATG penetrate the hair shaft more easily. Once inside, ATG breaks the disulfide bonds, softening the hair and making it pliable. This allows the stylist to wrap the hair around rods to create the desired curl pattern.

Chemical structure of Ammonium Thioglycolate

The Role of pH in Alkaline Perms

The alkaline nature of the solution is critical. A higher pH level swells the hair cuticle, making it more porous and allowing the ATG to penetrate more effectively. This is why alkaline perms are generally stronger and longer-lasting than acid perms. However, a higher pH can also lead to more hair damage if not carefully controlled.

The Neutralization Process

After the hair is wrapped and processed with the ATG solution, a neutralizer is applied. This neutralizer typically contains hydrogen peroxide or a similar oxidizing agent. The neutralizer's job is to reform the disulfide bonds, setting the hair in its new curled shape. This is a crucial step; without proper neutralization, the curls will not hold.

Why Neutralization is Essential

Without neutralization, the hair would remain chemically weakened and vulnerable to damage. The reformed disulfide bonds provide the hair with its new, lasting structure. The neutralization process is as important as the application of the ATG solution for a successful, long-lasting perm.

Safety Considerations

While ATG is effective, it's essential to remember that it's a chemical. Improper use can lead to hair damage, breakage, and scalp irritation. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, and choose a qualified and experienced stylist to perform your perm. A professional understands the correct application techniques and safety measures to minimize the risk of damage.

Alternatives to Alkaline Perms

While alkaline perms are a common choice, there are alternatives available, such as acid perms and digital perms. These methods often use different chemicals and techniques with varying levels of potential damage to hair. Discussing different perm options with your stylist can help you choose the best method for your hair type and condition.

Conclusion

The active ingredient in alkaline perms is ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), a reducing agent that breaks and reforms the disulfide bonds in hair to create lasting curls. The alkaline solution facilitates ATG penetration and strengthens the perm. However, proper neutralization and careful application are essential to minimize hair damage. Choosing a skilled professional and understanding the process is key to achieving beautiful, healthy curls with an alkaline perm. Remember to always consult a professional hairstylist for advice tailored to your specific hair needs and texture.

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